Scents And Sensibility

The Age

Saturday February 4, 2006

JANE FAULKNER

It's not often that I have to get things off my chest, or rather out of my entire olfactory network, but lately there have been too many scenarios such as this. At a restaurant and, like Pavlov's dog (hopefully not looking like one), excited about the wine order. After the initial check for faults, the waiter expertly fills the glass. And there it is, a foul aroma that can only be described as a cross between fly spray and rancid aromatherapy oil. No, it isn't the wine, I can't smell that yet. It is a female diner walking past, stink in tow, which is clinging to any object in its way.

Women aren't the only offenders when it comes to wearing shocking perfume. Men can be soaked in aftershave - good or bad, doesn't matter - body odour mixed with polyester; sweaty old runners, vintage 1999. I won't go on.

At a restaurant, we're enticed by the aromas of wine and food and you don't want those to be overshadowed or ruined by strong perfume or aftershave. Such aromas assault the senses. Smell and taste are all about aromas or chemical compounds; add perfume to that mixture - well, most are synthetic in the extreme and just awful. Hey, I love my Bvlgari au The Vert perfume, but not when I'm eating, and never at wine tastings. I'm amazed by some people in the trade who turn up to such occasions masked by something they've splashed on - which is a capital wine offence. I recently dined at the Flower Drum - it was a special occasion, as it is for most people who go there. It was all but ruined by a woman, no doubt celebrating, too, who was doused in vile perfume. I don't even know if it was "perfume" - germ warfare perhaps? It made me gag, and others too.

So please, please don't wear perfume or aftershave if you're dining out, even if you're eating at home. The only perfume diners want to smell is in the glass or on the plate.

Here are three wines with all the perfume you'll need. -- JANE FAULKNER

GREEN POINT YARRA VALLEY PINOT NOIR 2003 RESERVE $35

This is a pretty wine showing terrific varietal pinot noir characters. An attractive nose of cherries, red berries, some almond kernel, plus subtle, spicy, vanillin oak that adds a layer of complexity to the wine. It has that alluring, lovely pinot noir silkiness on the palate, quite soft and matched to fine tannins with a fresh finish. An elegant wine.

PIZZINI ARNEIS 2005 $25

Arneis is a rare Piedmontese white variety that Pizzini in the King Valley excel at making.

This is incredibly fresh and lively with white spring floral notes, some pears and ripe grapefruit. It's refreshing with good, clean acidity, tangy and easy drinking on a hot day but great with antipasto, too. Move over, pinot grigio.

PENFOLDS CELLAR RESERVE GEWURZTRAMINER 2005 $27

There aren't many interesting Australian gewurztraminers on the market but this is one of them. It has fresh rose aromas but also rose water notes, too, a hint of lychee and intense musk notes but not cloying or overly sweet. Good varietal characters and quite spritely, with decent acidity and a fresh, clean palate. Everything in balance but best enjoyed with food.

© 2006 The Age

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